On the path to History, Art and Spirituality

Lifestyle

To the south of the Viseu district, there are places that deserve a closer visit. In this edition, we leave two examples. One in Mortágua and another in Santa Comba Dão. They are Villages of Portugal. The proposals involve meditative moments, knowledge, without forgetting gastronomy and traditions

Photographer: Aldeias de Portugal

Quince tree
Mortágua

Referenced at least since 973, the village of Marmeleira, in the municipality of Mortágua, is today inhabited by around 480 people who, just as they survived the French invasions, also resist significant depopulation and keep the town in the district of Viseu active. through the inspiring landscape of Mata do Bussaco. The old houses of Marmeleira, often abandoned, coexist with more modern housing to the taste of the few young people who have settled in the town, where the main tourist attraction is the Núcleo Museológico da Irmânia “Raízes e Memórias”. This space hosts an arts and crafts exhibition, and, in addition to information about the native flora and figures of the land linked to republican ideals and Freemasonry, it presents other aspects of the village’s history, recreating concrete spaces such as a house of 19th century farmers and two emblematic commercial establishments from the first decades of 1900, Loja Progresso and Alfaiataria Lysiana. “Lysina” and “Irmânia” are, in fact, names that are sometimes confused as synonyms of “Marmeleira”, either because they originate from medieval names in the region or because they are linked to decisive historical moments, such as the creation of the Escola Livre da Irmânia , in 1908. The memory of this educational establishment is particularly cherished in the village because, together with the Popular Library (also called the Democratic Center for Popular Education), this educational space constituted a decisive milestone in the regional dissemination of literacy and the promotion of the spirit of freedom and citizenship. The effort to implement these concepts gains even greater relevance if interpreted in the historical context of the region itself, which will justify a trip of a few kilometers to the municipal headquarters to visit the “Mortágua na Batalha do Bussaco” Interpretation Center. Evoking what was the greatest Napoleonic battle in Portugal, this cultural space pays homage to the men and women who faced the invading troops in the conflict of 1810 and remembers how local people tenaciously endured the hardships imposed by the situation. Returning to Marmeleira, there is also the ruins of the Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora do Carmo, built around 1600 next to a river, a sign of the appreciation that the local population has had for its water resources for centuries. This temple was intended to house a convent of Discalced Carmelites, but the project did not move forward because the Counts of Odemira, grantees of the then Villa Irmânia and lords of Marmeleira, did not accept the prior’s proposal when recommending that the income from the church be sent for the management of the religious residence. Other temples highlighted in this “Village of Portugal” are the Church of Marmeleira, dating from 1797 and decorated on the outside with a huge stone clock donated to the parish by the inhabitants of the village, and the Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora da Ribeira, a rococo style temple built in 1645 and rebuilt in 1747. Like the Chapel of São João da Cercosa, this sanctuary is surrounded by a picnic area, but is distinguished by a rolling mill that is still in operation. Fans of active tourism also have good options for walking routes in the region, such as the GR 49 Grande Rota do Bussaco, the Caminho Natural da Espiritualidade and the eight cycling routes defined by the Mortágua MTB Center. After this physical effort, it is then time for caloric compensation and the region’s unavoidable delicacies are two: lampantana, made with sheep meat roasted in a clay pot in a wood-fired oven and served with uniformed potatoes and greens, and the so-called “bolo de cornos”, which, also known as “24-hour cake” or “sweet Easter cake”, is kneaded in a glazed clay bowl and greased with olive oil or butter while it is still hot.

Couto do Monastery
Santa Comba Dão

A land of Templar heritage, Couto do Mosteiro says a lot about its origins in the name itself. It combines the reference to the monastery that was built there in 1150 by the Order of the Templars and the mention of the couto that D. Afonso III established in 1255 to entrust his fertile lands to the bishops of Coimbra. Less than three centuries later, the town was elevated to the category of town and, by charter from D. Manuel in 1514, it became the seat of a municipality of the same name, which only much later, in 1836, would be extinguished to give way to the current one. municipality of Santa Comba Dão, in the district of Viseu. Couto do Mosteiro maintained, however, its noble reputation. This can be seen at first glance when faced with such noble heritage as the old town hall building, which also served as a prison and primary school; Solar dos Costas, a rural noble house built in the 18th century; and the Main Church, which, after reconstruction in 1661, remains in the exact location that was once the home of the Templar monks. In the architectural landscape of Couto do Mosteiro, the Manueline pillory stands out, which marks the status granted to the land by the royal charter of the 13th century, and the Casa dos Arcos, which, built in the 17th century, is known for having housed D. . Catarina de Bragança, widow of Charles II of England, on her return to Portugal. Later, in 1824, the owner of this manor was awarded the title of Baron of Santa Comba, but, with or without a noble business card, other cherished manor houses in Couto do Mosteiro are that of Festas, that of Varela Dias and that of Outeiro, which has its own chapel. Currently with around 90 inhabitants, this “Village of Portugal” still dedicates part of its daily routine to agriculture, in which wine production occupies a special place, and also participates in local associative life, very focused on activities related to the parish. Moments in which the community spirit is experienced with particular enthusiasm are, in this context, the festivities in honor of São Brás, with a well-appointed chapel during those days, and even the Festas de Santa Cruz, in the neighboring village, where “the mother cross do Couto do Mosteiro is kissed by the cross-daughter of Vimieiro”. On the first Sunday in May, the population of one locality goes to the village on the other side of the Dão, in fulfillment of an ancient ritual originating from pagan blessings on the fields. For more meditative moments, Couto do Mosteiro also has many options: the small wooden walkway next to Ribeira das Hortas, between the old Town Hall and Rua dos Aldrógãos; the viewpoints of Colmeosa and Outeirinho; the bridge over the Criz river; the local section of the Aguieira Dam reservoir; and the bathing area of ​​Senhora da Ribeira, where the Criz, Dão and Mondego rivers meet. The Ecopista do Dão route is another leisure alternative, with its 49 kilometers of natural route over the old railway line from Viseu to Santa Comba Dão, deactivated in 1988 and transformed into a cycling route in 2011. Now is the time to recharge your batteries. , the local gastronomy focuses on dishes such as lamb stew, lumps with pork belly and the typical broinhas of Santa Comba. But typical products from Couto do Mosteiro are also wine, olive oil, chestnuts, apples and mushrooms. Many of these vegetables already existed on the land at the time of the French invasions. And, in this regard, the story goes that, on September 19, 1810, when Napoleonic troops were traveling through Couto do Mosteiro, the Portuguese ambushed them on the road to Vale da Mó, resulting in the death of several French people. Revenge came the next day. Bonaparte’s men captured some Portuguese in Portela and then hanged them on the mountain that is now known as Cabeço da Forca. Also in this case, the toponymy says a lot about the history of the place – and preserves memories that must be known and respected.